By Rabbi Leonard Rosenthal
TEL AVIV — Something seemed awry when I logged onto El Al’s website three months ago to select seats for our Israel bound plane: the 747 was completely booked. Our seats were already assigned and not one extra one was available.
Little did we know when we booked our tickets last August that our flight would be the one chosen by at least two major teen trips to bring their teens to Israel. Our flight was filled with hundreds of Camp Ramah Seminar and BBYO participants and staffers, plus a few other bewildered lone travelers. Needless to say, we did not think we were going to get much sleep on the flight.
After takeoff we were pleasantly surprised that all of the teens were not only well behaved and courteous, but even slept through the night. Even if they hadn’t, we figured it would have been worth a little less sleep to be able to experience their excitement and enthusiasm as they traveled to Israel for a very special summer.
My study program at the Shalom Hartman Institute in Jerusalem does not begin until Monday. We arrived a few days early so that we could adjust to the time change and I would not end up sleeping through my classes!
We decided to stay in Tel Aviv before moving to Jerusalem. We are staying at a hotel, where Brianna Levin, the daughter of Linda and Michael Levin, is the Internet Manager. The hotel is a block from the beach, recently refurbished, and lovely.
We met Brianna and her boyfriend, Brian Estiz, whom she met while working in Spain, for dinner. They both are happy and excited to be living and working in Tel Aviv and we got to learn about Israel from their perspective.
Every time we go to Israel we look for sites that are completely new to us. This trip we found three.The first is Hatachana, “The Railway Station.” Built in 1892, now on the border of Jaffa and Tel Aviv, this was the terminal for the old Jaffa-Jerusalem Railway, whose creation was the brainchild of Moses Montifiore.
The site was recently repaired and reconstructed. The tracks are still there along with a couple of old railway cars. The old buildings and Arab homes now contain upscale restaurants, cafes, and shops. We spent an hour walking around and enjoying the usually temperate weather. It’s about 80° and relatively dry.
We had planned to visit Hatachana, but the second new site we toured came as a complete surprise. Right next to Hatachana is the IDF (Israel Defense Force) Museum. Split between outdoor and indoor exhibits, the IDF Museum details the development of the Israel armed forces, its training and weaponry, and the history of Israel’s wars against her neighbors. Not only can you see vintage and modern Israeli tanks and arms, but the history of its communications and engineering corps, uniforms, and leadership as well.
As opposed to most Israeli museums, this one seems to be directed more at natives than tourists. We saw a group of IDF recruits being led and lectured through the exhibits, but no one else. It’s unfortunate, because it is a fascinating museum.
The next surprise was a series of exhibits and performances that took place on Thursday night throughout the city. In 2003 UNESCO declared Tel Aviv the “White City” and a World Heritage Site. Since that time the municipality has celebrated with a one night festival called Layla Lavan, White Night Tel Aviv.
The celebration lasts from sundown until the wee hours of the morning. There are concerts and street performers throughout the city. We went down to Rothschild Boulevard, on which thousands of people of all ages were gathered. Numerous bands and D.J.’s played everything from the Beatles to Klezmer, and numerous “living statues” dotted the landscape.
Afterward we continued to Gordon Beach so that Judy could join the hundreds of Israeli folk dancers celebrating well past midnight. This morning we visit Nachalat Binyamin with its unique outdoors craft show before preparing for Shabbat.
On Sunday we make our way to Jerusalem. So far, our trip has been a lot of fun and we have stayed up late, very late! Next week I get down to the serious business of Talmud Torah.
Shabbat Shalom from Tel Aviv.
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Rabbi Rosenthal is spiritual leader of Tifereth Israel Synagogue in San Diego. He may be contacted at leonard.rosenthal@sdjewishworld.com