El Vitral opens colorful window on Mexican cuisine

By Lynne Thrope

SAN DIEGO–El Vitral (The Stained Glass) is aptly named because of its retractable south-facing glass wall with an expansive view of Petco Park as well as for its brightly colored glass signage on J Street. Both speak volumes of the gentrification that is taking place in San Diego’s East Village. But, it took a Shabbat rainstorm and a fortuitous parking space out front for me to make El Vitral’s acquaintance. I’m glad I did; it altered my understanding of Mexican food forever! 

The orchestration of La Cena (dinner) was conducted by Cory, our warm-hearted, enthusiastic, and knowledgeable server, who deftly deconstructed each dish beginning with three guacamole dips served with homemade (get this!) light and fluffy tortilla chips (words usually not ascribed to this traditional mainstay). Let me suggest here that next time you go to Petco Park, stop in at El Vitral and get an order (or three) to go.  To accompany this trio of exotic avocado concoctions Cory brought me a Jamaica mi Loco – an orange/lime juice cocktail made with blanco tequila created by the Tippling Brothers, two dedicated mixologists imported from NYC whose mission is “to help the world drink better.” Try one at the bar during Happy Hour from 4:00p to 7:00p for $4, or a beer for $3, or a glass of wine for $5.  Order the cerviche with mahi mahi , roasted tomatillo, poblano, and orange and lime juices – to pair with any of your drink orders. Then try a taco or enchilada. I assure you that El Vitral’s presentation will be inviting, and the taste superlative!

Owner Pablo Becker wants it this way. It’s in his genes since he studied modern Mexican fare from his famous uncle, chef Arturo Sandoval. He wears the pride of this hit eatery with jocularity and humility. It’s obvious he loves to be in the space he created, maybe because he shares it with the affable Carlos Mijes, the GM. When I told Carlos I was Jewish, he regaled me with stories of the numerous Jewish families from Mexico City who frequent El Vitral because “it feels like home.”

But what served to redefine the Mexican culinary experience for me was the mole. I love mole [MOH-lay] that spicy Mexican chocolate sauce usually served with poultry. If you do, too, I urge you to watch (again) the Mexican film favorite, “Like Water for Chocolate,” after which, you will understand the transforming cuisine of Norma Martinez, the Chef de Cuisine.  She must have been influenced by this cinematic gem because of the impact the libidinous food had on love. There is a scene in which Tita, the protagonist, prepares a sensual quail dish in a rose sauce. It so intoxicated her sister Gertrudis she impetuously rides off with a handsome Mexican rebel!  No matter this was their first encounter. When asked about her secret to making perfect mole, Tita asserts, “The secret to cooking good mole is to make it with love.” I assert that each of Chef Martinez’s moles are also made with love – in abundance…B’Tayavon

El Vitral

815 J Street

San Diego 92101

619.236.9420

www.elvitralrestaurant.com

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Restaurant reviewer Thrope can be contacted at lynne.thrope@sdjewishworld.com