By Dorothea Shefer-Vanson in Domeyrot, France
Spending time away from home gives one a chance to take a longer view of our everyday life, and no view could be longer, or further away from our routine in Israel, than spending time in a remote French village.
The place is set in countryside that was once verdant but now, as a result of the recent spells of unaccustomed heat, consists of dried-up fields with boundaries denoted by wilting bushes and the occasional tree. Nonetheless, the village is still a place of tranquility and solace for the anguished souls who normally inhabit a country which is anything but tranquil.
Many of the ancient stone houses stand empty during much of the year, being occupied in the summer months by owners or rental tenants. The sedate pace of life usually dictated by the weather and the seasons seems to impose a general spirit of friendliness among the local inhabitants. It is impossible to pass another person in the street without being greeted by a friendly ‘Bonjour’ to which it is imperative to respond with a similar greeting.
The people involved may never have met you, but common courtesy in the countryside seems to require at least the friendly acknowledgement of one another’s existence. In moments of need the villagers do not hesitate to come to one another’s aid, — no overtones of the animosity described in Marcel Pagnol’s novel Jean de Florette, which was made into a heart-rending movie directed by Claude Berri.
Getting away from our daily routine in Israel also means being cut off from the Israeli media. This is an undoubted benefit, especially in an election year, with the heightened intent of politicians and commentators on getting their message across. It may be something of a betrayal of our democratic responsibility to pay attention to all the policies and messages, but the intensity of the political fray has come to be burdensome, and one simply turns away from the constant barrage of opinions and ideas, not to mention the attacks, both physical and metaphorical, of one segment on another.
So, while we’re in the village, we spend our time reading, listening to music, going for walks, making little forays to local places of interest or doing our shopping (the nearest place with shops is over ten kilometers away, so having a car is essential). The countryside is replete with picturesque villages, beautiful scenery, ancient churches and historic castles, so there is no shortage of places of interest to visit. In addition, local municipalities provide sites for art exhibitions and even organize concerts of various kinds.
And, of course, there are the restaurants and cafes. One of our favorite local restaurants offers a set three-course meal for a very reasonable price, though one can also choose one of the many alternatives on offer. This constitutes the traditional lunch provided for local workers at the rate which the employer is required to cover. It is not unusual to see a group of local workers, still in uniform, sitting at one of the tables, consuming their midday meal and washing it down with a bottle of wine. One wonders how much work is done afterwards, but that’s not our concern.
As we left the village after a month of peace and quiet, the rain was starting to fall, hinting at the rigors of the winter to follow. Winters in central France are harsh, with snow and ice, floods and freezing weather. The log fires that are used for heating require constant attention and involve a lot of work. Anyone who doesn’t have to stay in the countryside for work or their farm beats a hasty retreat as winter approaches, as we have done. Israel’s winter is usually less extreme, and if there is snow and ice it doesn’t last for very long.
Israel’s political climate can be stormy and distressing, but its physical climate is one of the best in the world, with its warm, sunny summers and temperate winters. In addition, Israel’s extensive desalination projects mean that the country doesn’t suffer from a shortage of water, as many of its neighbors do. All Israel needs to make life perfect is less animosity from those who seek to destroy it.
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Dorothea Shefer-Vanson is an author and freelance writer based in the Jerusalem suburb of Mevasseret Zion, Israel.