Cookbook is kosher, but still disappointing

SAN DIEGO — Upon opening this beautiful cookbook I expected a frumme looking woman dressed in the traditional orthodox clothing complete with head covering and was a little taken aback but smiled at the beautiful author who reminds me of myself in the kitchen! Shoulder length long brown hair and dressed with a simple t-shirt like a reformed or conservative modern Jewish mom! Definitely 2013! I was thrilled with the pictures that look absolutely divine and appetizing. With my mouth salivating I dove in to try the recipes. I myself have been an avid cook and baker for over 28 years. I also have taught cooking classes in Jewish cooking and baking and was thrilled to try out this beautiful book. I have a huge cookbook collection and I have a tremendous amount of fun using them.

I must say that I thought it odd there was no indication of which recipes were parve or dairy or fleishich (meat). Of course this is obvious to one who keeps kosher but it isn’t to the novice kosher cook. Not to mention for the non-Jew who would open this lovely book there should be a definition as to each of these things. Also there should have been substitutions for making a dish parve when possible. If not then the least Kushner could have done would be to identify them as dairy.

First I tried the brisket which was absolutely delicious. The whole family loved it and so did our next door neighbors. Sadly it was the one good recipe that I tried. I excitedly continued and tried many more recipes and was so disappointed. I tried a variety of meats, cakes and side dishes. There just wasn’t enough flavor although the recipes appear delicious when reading the ingredient list. Kushner needs to add more salt to almost everything. Proportions were off and one example was La Pasta, a Spanish orange sponge cake which looks great. It wasn’t. I had several different people try the cake, no one was impressed, just the opposite, sad looks….The candied orange slices and syrup sauce that is reduced to 3 and 1/4 cups is just way too much syrup. I couldn’t use all that sweet syrup, it was just overpowering. I ended up using the syrup to flavor a batch of black tea I made with it the next day, that tea was good though!

I wanted desperately to give the cookbook another chance so I took the book to my orthodox neighbor up the street. She and I have been cooking and sharing recipes together for over 14 years. For a year when she and I first met we must have tried and shared over a dozen challah recipes which we both make diligently every Shabbos! We both love to cook and know how to expand, change, improve and make original recipes.

A few days later my frumme neighbor called me back and said exactly what I just said, no flavor, not enough salt and no indication of whether a recipe is parve, dairy or fleishich. She too was disappointed. I need to note that I really wanted to give Kushner yet another chance with trying more of the beautiful looking recipes because they sound so good but I am afraid to waste my time, energy and money investing in the ingredients. Reviewing a cookbook is challenging with all the work and money involved so the disappointment is much worse than a bad read.

Kushner says in the beginning of her book that, “food should taste as good as it looks.” I sure wish it did in this case. Kushner says on the very next page that “A thoughtfully prepared dish is far more interesting than a perfectly prepared one. In fact,” she continues, “I never approach any dish with the idea that it will be perfect.” She also talks about this in her video that can be seen when Googling Gefen Publishing. Unfortunately for her these recipes are far from perfect.

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Ross is a freelance writer based in San Diego. She may be contacted at melanie.ross@sdjewishworld.com