Bombastic decor. A 72-page menu. But it’s the food that draws people to this restaurant in Bogota.

If you’re going to celebrate anything while in Bogota, I think the only place to do it right is a restaurant called Andres Carne de Res. The legendary restaurant has been around since 1982, in an area called Chia, about 45 minutes outside of town. While on assignment at a gastronomy conference, I opted for its…