What London Fast Food Says About British Identity

On an East London street corner where the looming glass of the finance district hits the tangled alleyways of what used to be the working class East End, there’s a space where a battered white kiosk once was. “Tubby Isaac’s Jellied Eel Stall” served whelks, oysters and its titular slippery delicacies—essentially boiled and spiced eels—from its…